Destiny Torres (Chiba)
Nestled on a hill in Chiba’s countryside, surrounded by trees shifting into hues of red, orange, and yellow, one of the region’s oldest shrines is preparing for its annual Good Harvest Festival. The rhythmic beat of the odaiko echoes through the woods as visitors climb the stone steps toward Nakoshiyama Shrine, where a traditional sarutahiko dance is about to begin.
“Many shrines have their own way of praying and their own particular events,” says Shinto priest Mayumi Saito, who is documenting the ceremony her son leads.
But Mayumi Saito wasn’t always a Shinto priest.
When she first moved to Minamiboso, Chiba, Mayumi was newly married and beginning her career as an English teacher. She taught at local junior high schools while adjusting to her new life in the Saito household; a family that had served Nakoshiyama Shrine for over 1,500 years.
“My husband was born in this house. The Saito family has kept this house for almost 1,500 years,” she recalls.
Her life took a difficult turn when her husband passed away from cancer. With two young boys to raise, Mayumi made a decision that would change her future.
She retired early at age 55 and entered priesthood training.
“The guji [main priest] is my son. He is the 64th generation,” she says with pride.
Mayumi herself now serves as gon negi, the third-ranking priest of Nakoshiyama Shrine.
Nakoshiyama Shrine is recorded as one of the oldest shrines in the region and can be found in the 927 Engishiki Jinmyocho from the Heian period. Its history is deeply tied to the agricultural cycles of Minamiboso, reflected in the many ceremonies held throughout the year.
One of the shrine’s most remarkable traditions is its sake brewing; a practice almost entirely lost among Japanese shrines. It is now one of four shrines in Japan that continue the practice.
“In the early Meiji period, almost all shrines brewed sake, but the introduction of taxes changed that. But the people of this shrine wanted to maintain it, so we pay the tax,” Mayumi explains.
The brewing begins in the heat of August so that the sake is ready for Minamiboso’s largest event: the Yawata Festival, where shrines from across the region gather to celebrate the harvest.
Though deeply traditional, Nakoshiyama Shrine is anything but stuck in the past. Shrines across Chiba are innovating while preserving their unique cultural practices.
Mayumi is part of the Women’s Shinto Priest Association, which supports collaboration between shrines and develops new ways to invite visitors.
“Previously, people didn’t visit shrines in the countryside, but recently with goshuin, ema, and omikuji, it has helped.”
The association recently created a special Chiba-kun shaped ema, set to be released in December 2025.
Nakoshiyama Shrine is also working with local artisans to craft 2,000 [[i]]boshu uchiwa[[i]], a famous traditional fan of the Boso area.
“It’s a famous traditional craft, and a way for people to purify themselves,” Mayumi explains.
And while shrines are known for their busy New Year’s season, she notes that their work never truly slows:
“We are busy all year round. There are big festivals, but also smaller ones as well.”
Despite her formal responsibilities, Mayumi remains deeply connected to the local community. She still participates in English-speaking circles as a hobby, supported by the Minamiboso International Exchange Association.
“The JET CIRs helped create the English circle,” she notes, smiling.
Nakoshiyama Shrine is only one example of the countless shrines across Japan with deep histories, evolving traditions, and community members whose lives are intertwined with the places they serve.
For many locals, the shrine is more than a place of worship.
“What is special about shrines is we are very close to people. Sometimes people visit me just to talk,” she says. “Shrines are a place of praying, tradition, and community.”
Behind all torii gates lies a story that is ancient, modern, and uniquely local waiting to be uncovered.
Author Bio:
Destiny Torres is a 3rd year JET in Chiba. She enjoys documenting different experiences in Japan through vlogs and writing. You can often find her reading a book, journaling, volunteering, and traveling.